Understanding Stitch Length and Width: Adjusting for Different Fabrics

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Not every project calls for adjusting the length of the thread, but as you work with various materials and begin utilizing stitches for more than simply building, a few little tricks will come in useful. A little length goes a long way when using the modern machines, which can sew at speeds of up to 1000 stitches per minute.

Making this crucial decision on the thread length is crucial to the machine sewing process. The ideal stitch length for your sewing tasks will be demonstrated in this article based on the fabric and intended use. The thread length is typically expressed in millimeters, and the majority of sewing machines come with a stitch regulator. To get the most out of your sewing machine, you must have a basic awareness of how the stitch length can change and how these little parameters effect your sewing.

A bit of math

Most sewing machines have a millimeter-based stitch length indicator. Every stitch will measure 2.4 mm when the stitch length is set to 2.4.

Understanding Stitch Length and Width
Understanding Stitch Length and Width

Occasionally, a stitch length tutorial or design may be extremely detailed, showing a crucial measurement in millimeters or stitches per inch. Although some math is required, switching between millimeters and stitches per inch is rather simple.

Recognize first that an inch is made up of 25.4 millimeters. The formula to convert stitches from metric to inches is as follows: the number of stitches per inch is equal to 25.4 divided by the stitch’s metric length. Additionally, every page on the website has a metric calculator located in the sidebar close to the bottom.

This means that, in our 2.4 example, 25.4 divided by 2.4 = 10.58 stitches per inch. Most likely, you would round to eleven stitches per inch.

In the other direction, divide 25.4 by 10 to obtain the millimeter setting of 2.5 if a pattern calls for 10 stitches per inch.

The long and the short of it

Stitch length has a very simple idea behind it. A tighter seam will result from packing more stitches into each inch of stitching, which is achieved by using shorter stitches. The seam will be looser since there will be less stitches per inch the longer the stitches are. Longer is loose; shorter is tight. An other way to look at it is this: lengthy equals weaker and transient, and short equals stronger and durable. This is only a general guideline. A greater stitch length may occasionally be equally as permanent as a shorter one. The lower stitch line in the image below is 2.4, and the higher stitch line is 1.0.

Understanding Stitch Length and Width
Understanding Stitch Length and Width

The feed dogs—those tiny grippers in the middle of the needle plate beneath the presser foot—are what change when you alter the stitch length, not the needle. Before the next stitch is made, the machine modifies the amount of fabric that the feed dogs will move.

Understanding Stitch Length and Width
Understanding Stitch Length and Width

Reduce the amount of cloth fed beneath the presser foot before the needle descends by shortening the stitch. Before the needle goes in again, the feed dogs will move more fabric beneath the presser foot if you lengthen the stitch.

Fine or delicate textiles benefit greatly from a tighter stitch. It also aids in maintaining sharp corners and smooth curves. For further information, see our tutorials on sewing curves and creating corners.

Long stitches are used for machine basting and gathering because they apply less strain to hold the fabric together. Because most knitting requires more stretch, a longer stitch length is advantageous. For further information, see our lessons on machine basting, gathering by machine, and sewing with knits. When stitching through numerous layers or thicker textiles, a longer stitch is preferable.

Also Read: Creating Perfect Gathered Stitches: Step-by-Step Tutorial

For a more noticeable ornamental impact, we also love to prolong our stitches when topstitching, like we did on our Split Skirt Gardening Apron, which is featured in the picture below.

Understanding Stitch Length and Width
Understanding Stitch Length and Width

A helpful stitch chart with recommended settings and applications for the available stitches on your model can usually be found in the manual for your sewing machine.

The majority of machines come with “default stitch settings.” The manufacturer believes that these length and width values are ideal in the majority of circumstances. For instance, the stitch length on the Janome Skyline S5 is set at 2.4 by default. For the majority of cases and materials, this is the suggested configuration.

Understanding Stitch Length and Width
Understanding Stitch Length and Width

Having said that, you can change the length to suit your needs, the cloth, or your method. Stitch lengths are most commonly set between 0.0 and 5.0; 5.0 is used for machine basting or gathering, and 0.0 is used for free-motion quilting with the feed dogs dropped. The image below displays our three test stitch lines, which are 5.0, 2.4, and 1.0 from bottom to top.

Setting stitch length on a computerized model

To begin with, you must locate your machine’s stitch length adjustment indicator. The large touchscreen of the Janome Skyline S5 makes it simple to view the digital stitch length. The length can be easily changed by using the plus and minus arrows. Your machine will determine how much fine-tuning is necessary between settings. The increment of.5 mm is the most used.

Your machine might just have an indication light on one side of the screen if it has a smaller LED screen, like the Janome Magnolia below. You can adjust the thread length by pressing the plus and minus buttons while this light is adjacent to the stitch length sign, which is typically a dashed line.

Setting stitch length on a mechanical model

Your stitch length will probably be adjusted by turning a knob if your model is mechanical, like the Janome Magnolia 7318 seen below.

The smallest stitch length is represented by number 1 below, while the greatest stitch length is represented by number 4 below. To set the stitch, turn the knob. As usual, sew a fabric scrap to test the setting.

Additional adjustments

These general guidelines apply to choosing and adjusting your stitch length, even if the features mentioned above will differ slightly depending on the brand and model of sewing machine. More intricate techniques for altering stitch length can be found on some extremely expensive machines, such as ones that enable embroidery or have more sophisticated computer and memory options. Your best option with these is to curl up with the handbook.

To find the right stitch settings, it’s always a good idea to test them on swatches of the fabric you want to use for the project. Recall that the seam ripper does not spare any victims! To remove more stitches, increase the number of stitches per inch. It’s not as though you would ever have to tear out a seam, but let’s assume you had a friend who erred.

Final Thoughts

Machine sewing becomes more professional and useful when one is aware of the various uses for shorter and longer stitches, as well as the stitch length. The next time you hear the proverb “A stitch in time saves nine,” you might imagine that “A stitch of the proper length adds strength” instead!


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